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Summary
Summary
Modelling large-scale wave fields and their interaction with coastal and offshore structures has become much more feasible over the last two decades with increases in computer speeds. Wave modelling can be viewed as an extension of wave theory, a mature and widely published field, applied to practical engineering through the use of computer tools. Information about the various wave models which have been developed is often widely scattered in the literature, and consequently this is one of the first books devoted to wave models and their applications.
At the core of the book is an introduction to various types of wave models. For each model, the theoretical assumptions, the application range, and the advantages and limitations are elaborated. The combined use of different wave models from large-scale to local-scale is highlighted with a detailed discussion of the application and matching of boundary conditions. At the same time the book provides a grounding in hydrodynamics, wave theory, and numerical methods which underlie wave modelling. It presents the theoretical background and also shows how to use these models for achieving different engineering tasks, illustrated and reinforced with case study examples.
Author Notes
Pengzhi Lin is Professor at the State Key Laboratory of Hydraulics and Mountain River Engineering, Sichuan University, China.
Table of Contents
Preface | p. vii |
1 Introduction to water wave modeling | p. 1 |
1.1 Introduction to waves | p. 1 |
1.2 Ocean surface waves and the relevance to engineering applications | p. 1 |
1.3 Wave modeling | p. 3 |
1.4 Numerical models for water waves | p. 4 |
1.5 Books on water waves | p. 8 |
2 Review of hydrodynamics | p. 9 |
2.1 Basic equations for hydrodynamics | p. 9 |
2.2 Potential flow theory | p. 15 |
2.3 Turbulent flows and turbulence modeling | p. 17 |
3 Water wave theories and wave phenomena | p. 30 |
3.1 Linear wave theory | p. 30 |
3.2 Nonlinear properties of linear waves | p. 36 |
3.3 Nonlinear wave theory | p. 44 |
3.4 Wave generation and propagation | p. 54 |
3.5 Wave superposition and wave group | p. 56 |
3.6 Wave shoaling | p. 57 |
3.7 Wave breaking | p. 59 |
3.8 Wave run-up, run-down, and overtopping | p. 61 |
3.9 Wave reflection | p. 65 |
3.10 Wave refraction | p. 70 |
3.11 Wave diffraction | p. 73 |
3.12 Wave damping | p. 78 |
3.13 Nonlinear wave interaction | p. 81 |
3.14 Wave-current interaction | p. 84 |
3.15 Wave-structure interaction | p. 97 |
4 Numerical methods | p. 128 |
4.1 Introduction | p. 128 |
4.2 Finite difference method | p. 133 |
4.3 Finite element method | p. 151 |
4.5 Spectral method | p. 156 |
4.6 Boundary element method | p. 158 |
4.7 Meshless particle method | p. 160 |
4.8 Problem-based discrete formulation methods | p. 164 |
4.9 Grid and mesh generation | p. 168 |
4.10 Matrix solvers | p. 182 |
5 Water wave models | p. 185 |
5.1 Introduction | p. 185 |
5.2 Depth-resolved models | p. 185 |
5.3 Depth-averaged models | p. 215 |
5.4 Case studies using model coupling techniques | p. 275 |
5.5 Example wave models and benchmark tests | p. 290 |
6 Modeling of wave-structure interaction | p. 333 |
6.1 Introduction | p. 333 |
6.2 Models for inviscid and potential flows | p. 334 |
6.3 Models for viscous and turbulent flows | p. 351 |
6.4 Numerical simulations of wave-structure interaction | p. 362 |
6.5 Benchmark tests | p. 378 |
7 Summary | p. 408 |
7.1 Summaries of wave models and numerical methods | p. 408 |
7.2 Subjects not covered in this book | p. 408 |
7.3 Future work | p. 411 |
Appendices | p. 415 |
References | p. 435 |
Subject index | p. 474 |
Author index | p. 481 |