Waves, tides and shallow-water processes

Library	Item Barcode	Call Number	Material Type	Item Category 1	Status
Searching... PSZ JB	30000004903013	GC211.2 W39 1999	Open Access Book	Book	Searching... Unknown
Searching... PSZ JB	30000010253309	GC211.2 W39 1999	Open Access Book	Book	Searching... Unknown
Searching... PSZ KL	30000004902981	GC211.2 W39 1999	Open Access Book	Book	Searching... Unknown

Completely revised and updated for its second edition, this volume belongs to the Open University series on oceanography. It is designed so that it can be read on its own or studied as part of the Open University third-level course, S330 Oceanography.The book begins by describing the characteristics of waves and tides, and their behaviour in shallow water. After outlining the sources of sediment supply to the oceans, some theoretical aspects of sediment movement and deposition by currents are considered. After looking at wave action in the littoral zone, the interplay of tidal currents, river flow and wave action in estuaries and deltas are explored. The final chapter provides an overview of shelf processes.This is a vital book for all oceanography undergraduate students worldwide.

About This Volume	p. 8
About This Series	p. 9
Chapter 1 Waves
1.1 What Are Waves?	p. 12
1.1.1 Types of waves	p. 12
1.1.2 Wind-generated waves in the ocean	p. 14
1.1.3 The fully developed sea	p. 16
1.1.4 Wave height and wave steepness	p. 17
1.2 Surface Wave Theory	p. 18
1.2.1 Motion of water particles	p. 20
1.2.2 Wave speed	p. 22
1.2.3 Wave speed in deep and in shallow water	p. 22
1.2.4 Assumptions made in surface wave theory	p. 24
1.3 Wave Dispersion and Group Speed	p. 24
1.4 Wave Energy	p. 26
1.4.1 Propagation of wave energy	p. 27
1.4.2 Attenuation of wave energy	p. 27
1.4.3 Swell	p. 28
1.4.4 Uses of wave energy	p. 30
1.5 Waves Approaching the Shore	p. 31
1.5.1 Wave refraction	p. 32
1.5.2 Waves breaking upon the shore	p. 35
1.6 Waves of Unusual Character	p. 38
1.6.1 Waves and currents	p. 38
1.6.2 Giant waves	p. 40
1.6.3 Tsunamis	p. 41
1.6.4 Seiches	p. 41
1.7 Measurement of Waves	p. 44
1.7.1 Satellite observations of waves	p. 44
1.8 Summary of Chapter 1	p. 47
Chapter 2 Tides
2.1 Tide-Producing Forces - The Earth-Moon System	p. 52
2.1.1 Variations in the lunar-induced tides	p. 59
2.2 Tide-Producing Forces - The Earth-Sun System	p. 62
2.2.1 Interaction of solar and lunar tides	p. 63
2.3 The Dynamic Theory of Tides	p. 66
2.3.1 Prediction of tides by the harmonic method	p. 70
2.4 Real Tides	p. 72
2.4.1 Tides and tidal currents in shallow seas	p. 75
2.4.2 Storm surges	p. 81
2.4.3 Tides in rivers and estuaries	p. 82
2.4.4 Tidal power	p. 83
2.5 Summary of Chapter 2	p. 85
Chapter 3 Introduction to Shallow-Water Environments and Their Sediments
3.1 Sediments of Shallow-Water Environments	p. 87
3.1.1 The supply of sediments to shelf seas and oceans	p. 91
3.1.2 Variations in supply and distribution of sediments over time	p. 92
3.2 Summary of Chapter 3	p. 95
Chapter 4 Principles and Processes of Sediment Transport
4.1 Factors Controlling the Movement of Sediment	p. 96
4.1.1 Frictional forces and the boundary layer	p. 97
4.1.2 Cohesive and non-cohesive sediments	p. 99
4.2 Sediment Erosion, Transport and Deposition	p. 100
4.2.1 Erosion of cohesive sediments and yield strength	p. 101
4.2.2 The concept of shear velocity	p. 103
4.2.3 The viscous sublayer	p. 107
4.2.4 Velocity profiles in the sea	p. 110
4.2.5 Shear velocity and the behaviour of non-cohesive sediments	p. 111
4.2.6 Rates of sediment transport	p. 112
4.3 The Deposition of Sediment	p. 117
4.3.1 Deposition of the bedload	p. 117
4.3.2 Deposition of the suspended load	p. 117
4.4 Bed Forms	p. 118
4.5 Summary of Chapter 4	p. 123
Chapter 5 Beaches
5.1 The Morphology of Beaches	p. 126
5.1.1 Beach profiles in relation to grain size and wave steepness	p. 130
5.2 Sediment Movement in the Beach Zone	p. 133
5.2.1 Orbital velocities and bed shear stress	p. 133
5.2.2 Sediment movement by waves	p. 134
5.2.3 Longshore sediment transport by wave-generated currents	p. 138
5.2.4 Rip currents	p. 141
5.3 Dynamic Equilibrium of Sediment Supply and Removal	p. 142
5.4 Summary of Chapter 5	p. 147
Chapter 6 Estuaries
6.1 Sediment Distribution in Estuaries	p. 150
6.1.1 Aggregation of sediment in estuaries	p. 154
6.2 Tidal Channels of Estuaries	p. 155
6.2.1 The estuarine continuum	p. 155
6.2.2 Regions of freshwater influence	p. 160
6.2.3 Sedimentation in estuaries	p. 162
6.2.4 Estuaries in low latitudes	p. 166
6.2.5 The dynamic balance of estuaries	p. 167
6.3 Lagoons, Tidal Flats and Barrier Islands	p. 169
6.4 Summary of Chapter 6	p. 173
Chapter 7 Deltas
7.1 Delta Morphology	p. 180
7.2 Mixing and Sediment Deposition at Distributary Mouths	p. 182
7.2.1 The deltaic continuum	p. 182
7.3 The Effects of Human Activities on Deltas	p. 187
7.4 Summary of Chapter 7	p. 188
Chapter 8 Shelf Seas
8.1 Shelf Sea Processes	p. 191
8.1.1 Coastal and ocean currents	p. 192
8.1.2 The effects of waves and of bioturbation	p. 193
8.2 Sediment Transport and Deposition in Some Shelf Seas	p. 194
8.3 The Shelf Sea System From Shore to Shelf Break	p. 199
8.4 Summary of Chapter 8	p. 201
Suggested Further Reading	p. 203
Answers and Comments to Questions	p. 204
Acknowledgments	p. 222
Index	p. 224

Available:*

On Order

Summary

Summary

Table of Contents